In Santa Ynez, the Jurassic Park Vineyard sits atop the playground of the dinosaurs of the Jurassic era. These days, pumpjacks swing wildly all around the perimeter of the vineyard, pumping black gold from deep underground and funding adult playgrounds in Beverly Hills. Our bounty is perhaps less remunerative, but no less precious. Planted in 1978, the age of this Chenin vineyard qualifies it as "old" in Southern California. We treat it gently, ferment it with native yeasts, and keep it company through the winter.